{"id":89,"date":"2011-11-15T18:00:30","date_gmt":"2011-11-15T18:00:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/?p=89"},"modified":"2011-11-15T18:01:05","modified_gmt":"2011-11-15T18:01:05","slug":"diario-de-los-angeles","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/?p=89","title":{"rendered":"Diario de Los Angeles"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>[Might as well stick to the format for a while. Seems to work.]<\/p>\n<p>I have friends here who insist that, despite the surface noise, not much in the way of culture really goes on in Los Angeles. While I suppose I should defer, to some extent, to their seniority in the city, I <em>did <\/em>fly back from Mexico City and go to an Antonioni double-bill that very night. Then came Terry Gilliam live with <em>Brazil<\/em> the next night. Then came Wim Wenders live with <em>Wings of Desire<\/em> and <em>Faraway, So Close!<\/em> Film culture is indisputably here; I&#8217;d say food culture is, too.<\/p>\n<p>Does Wim Wenders live in L.A., at least part-time? I&#8217;ve heard people claim that he does, though I can&#8217;t find any evidence either way. Whether he does or not, he seemed oddly comfortable in Santa Monica. We ran into him and his entourage on a street corner before his show, and I felt the odd pleasure you feel when you see someone who, in real life, looks <em>exactly<\/em> like he does in media. He wore a black jacket with bright stripes and splotches of what looked like red and blue paint (or maybe paintlike thread patterns) on the sleeves. Rei Kawakubo? <a href=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=wZA3a_XLCCs\">Yohji Yamamoto<\/a>?<\/p>\n<p>Los Angeles has brought regular double- and triple-bills into my life. Somehow, I&#8217;ve sat through the schlocky triple-bills \u2014 John Carpenter&#8217;s &#8220;Apocalypse Trilogy&#8221;; <em>Willard<\/em>, <em>Wild Beasts<\/em>, <em>Shakma<\/em> \u2014 in greater comfort than the more &#8220;respectable&#8221; double-bills. At Wenders&#8217; films, as often happens at these events, I simultaneously experienced great cinematic excitement and terribly distracting cold. Did the management shut off the heating for the lesser-known, lesser-regarded picture, or did nearly six hours of near-immobility just stop my blood from circulating?<\/p>\n<p>Scouting out apartments before moving here, I found myself strangely captivated by the slightly older, slightly more run-down area of Koreatown around 7th and Normandie. This had in large part to do with a little shack standing all alone in the parking lot of one of those L-shaped shopping centers (Madelaine&#8217;s dad, who&#8217;s worked in mall architecture calls them &#8220;LaManchas,&#8221; after the company that threw them up so feverishly in the seventies) you see everywhere in town. Despite having the shape of a burger or taco joint from days gone by, it advertised &#8220;authentic Korean dumpling&#8221; in English. My command of Korean didn&#8217;t quite rise to the occasion of reading anything else on its sign, except that the place seemed to be called &#8220;Yu Ga Ne&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>After actually moving to Koreatown \u2014 7th and Mariposa, to be precise \u2014 I so deeply understood the inevitability of eating at Yu Ga Ne that I somehow put it off for a couple of months. Part of this owed to the kind of frugality you only develop by having no income whatsoever, but that eventually broke down. I mean, if I won&#8217;t eat at a place with a black-and-white Xerox of its accolades from Los Angeles magazines &#8220;100 Cheap Eats&#8221; issue, where will I eat? Crossing the threshold, I discovered not the take-your-shite-and-get-out counter I expected, but a full-fledged &#8220;sit-down experience.&#8221; From a converted burger and\/or taco stand? Fascinating.<\/p>\n<p>Yelp reviews and word of mouth pointed to the combination of &#8220;king dumplings&#8221; and black bean noodles as a gateway. Intellectually, I knew that this would make enough of a meal for two, but, unable to stand the idea of only one king dumpling each, I asked for a full order of black bean noodles, a full order of dumplings, and a full order of &#8220;hot tofu.&#8221; Naturally, more food than we could put away promptly arrived, but the flavor situation turned out to be such that I very much wanted to cram it all into my unwilling stomach. In the comfort of Yu Ga Ne, after all, I could ease the pain by drinking all the cold corn tea I pleased.<\/p>\n<p>Leaving, nevertheless, with a hearty box of leftovers in hand, I reflected upon the fact of our being the only non-Koreans in the (admittedly tiny) restaurant. This bodes well for language practice; given its proximity to my home and the rich flavors of its food, I&#8217;ll prioritize becoming a regular here. (As soon as I get money, that is; we effectively ate a lunch and a dinner for a double sawbuck, total, but still.) I find that two demographic profiles in an eatery signal well about its eating experience: when everyone&#8217;s the same nationality as the food, or when everyone&#8217;s a completely different nationality. The worst sign? When everyone&#8217;s the same nationality, but not the nationality of the food. That bring big trouble. Bad medicine.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>[Might as well stick to the format for a while. Seems to work.] I have friends here who insist that, despite the surface noise, not much in the way of culture really goes on in Los Angeles. While I suppose I should defer, to some extent, to their seniority in the city, I did fly [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6,12,10,9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-89","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-film","category-food","category-koreatown","category-los-angeles"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/89","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=89"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/89\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":100,"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/89\/revisions\/100"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=89"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=89"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/blog.colinmarshall.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=89"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}