Colin Marshall sits down in Highland Park with Javier Cabral, the “food, booze, and punk rock” writer formerly known as The Teenage Glutster, and currently known as The Glutster. They discuss his mission to change the official punk rock food of Los Angeles from the Oki-dog to the taco; the reasons for the taco’s current surge of general popularity; the reputation Mexican food has, even among the otherwise culinarily aware, as “just Mexican food”; the humbling his Mexican-food expertise received at the hands of his girlfriend; the singular form of “tamales”; what the bean-and-cheese burrito stands for in Los Angeles Mexican cuisine; his Korean food outing with Matthew Kang; how punk rock got him exploring Los Angeles first, and how looking for punk show listings exposed him to the food writing of Jonathan Gold; what kind of music develops in the backyards of east Los Angeles; the pots of food his mom made for the attendees at his free 21st birthday punk show; how much he enjoyed comped meals (and drinks) on La Cienega as a young, broke food writer, and why he swore off them; why the eastside and westside continually accuse one another of having no food; the cultural overlap he’s found between food and punk rock in the most logical city for those two to come together; his long-form Saveur piece “Mexico Feeds Me“, which took him back to his family’s home state of Zacatecas (and which finally got his parents understanding his job); his love of street food, and his refusal to write about it for fear of getting its purveyors shut down; how both street food and punk rock always come back, no matter who tries to stamp them out; the burden of listicle-writing; and the etymology of the word “Glutster”.
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